Black Cod, Porcini, Squash and Miso Chowder

Porcini or oyster mushrooms, autumn squash, kombu dashi and a touch of cream

create a delicate, savory autumn chowder that brings together the richness of black cod, the earthy umami of wild mushrooms, and the depth of miso and kombu broth.

Serves: 4 | Preparation: 15 minutes | Cooking: 25 minutes

Ingredients

• 1 pound black cod (sablefish), skin removed and cut into 2-inch pieces

• 8 ounces fresh porcini or oyster mushrooms, cleaned and sliced

• 1 tablespoon butter

• 1 tablespoon olive oil

• 1 medium yellow onion, finely diced

• 2 garlic cloves, minced

• 1-inch piece fresh ginger, grated

• 1 cup delicata or kabocha squash, cut into small cubes

• 4 cups kombu and shiitake dashi

• 3 tablespoons white miso paste

• ½ cup heavy cream

• 1 tablespoon white tamari or soy sauce

• 1 tablespoon mirin

• 1 teaspoon rice vinegar or fresh lemon juice

• Sea salt and freshly ground white pepper, to taste

• Thinly sliced scallions or chives, for garnish

Instructions

1. Sauté the aromatics. In a heavy-bottomed pot, warm the butter and olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until translucent, about 4 minutes. Add garlic and ginger and cook another minute.

2. Brown the mushrooms. Add the porcini or oyster mushrooms and sauté for 5–7 minutes until lightly golden and fragrant. Reserve a few attractive slices for garnish.

3. Simmer the squash. Add the cubed squash and dashi. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 8–12 minutes, until the squash is just tender.

4. Add the miso and cream. Whisk the miso with a ladle of warm broth until smooth. Reduce heat to low and stir the miso mixture into the chowder along with the cream, tamari and mirin. Avoid boiling.

5. Poach the black cod. Gently add the black cod pieces and cook at a low simmer for 5–8 minutes, until opaque and easily flaked with a fork.

6. Finish the broth. Remove from heat and stir in the rice vinegar or lemon juice. Taste and adjust with salt and white pepper as needed.

7. Serve. Ladle into warm bowls, keeping the fish pieces intact. Garnish with reserved sautéed mushrooms and finely sliced scallions or chives.

Chef's notes

For porcini: A combination of fresh and dried porcini creates a particularly rich woodland broth. Rehydrate ½ ounce dried porcini and add the strained soaking liquid to the dashi.

For oyster mushrooms: Tear into generous strips and brown thoroughly to develop their savory flavor.

For a more delicate chowder: Use just ¼ cup cream rather than ½ cup. The black cod itself is naturally rich, and the miso and mushrooms contribute considerable body and depth.